- Cut a piece of brown craft paper slightly larger than the frame itself.
- Place a strip of two-sided tape around the outside edge.
- Lay down the craft paper on the tape, keeping it tight.
- Using a sharp utility knife, cut the along the outside edge.
Let’s continue…..
if you missed PART 1 click here
Remove the masking tape from the corners of the frame. Apply spackling to any corners or imperfections.
Lightly sand the entire frame with a 220 grit sand paper. Prime and paint the frame. I’m using my favorite black paint, Benjamin Moore’s Ironclad Metal & Wood Enamel.
{Mounting and Framing the Photograph}
Photo mount spray by 3M is one great way to mount your photograph or artwork. Protect your work surface with paper or plastic, shake the can well, and apply the adhesive in a criss cross pattern. Spray both the mount board and the back of the photograph. Allow the adhesive to set for 2-3 minutes before bonding together. I always spray photograph first and then my mount board. This will prevent any spray from accidently getting on the front of the photograph.
If you ever need a good work surface, I find that the air hockey or ping-pong tables are always clear and ready to be used. lol
{just protect the surface first}
Clean the glass well on both sides. Be extremely careful of cut glass. The raw edges are very sharp.
Be 100% sure that the glass is dry before laying down the photograph on the glass.
I used a framing gun to hold everything securely, placing around 5 or 6 points to each side.
If you don’t have a framing gun, there are points available that can be used manually with a flat head screw driver.
Add a professional touch by placing a brown paper backing to the back of the frame.
This helps keep dust from entering between the glass and the photograph!
Add a picture frame hanger to the back. Because the size of my frame, I will be using two hangers placed 4 inches in from each side.
***I have found over the years that upholstery tacks work great with these metal hangers. The tacks have a large head so as not to fall through the holes and it taps in easily without pre-drilling.
Add bumpers to all the corners.
Bumpers keep the frame from scratching the wall and allows the frame to hang level from the wall because of the hangers.
A trick I use when hanging artwork up and to find where to place a nail in the wall with out fancy gadgets. TOOTHPASTE.
I add a little dab of toothpaste to the center of the hanger, right where the nail needs to go. Find the spot on the wall where you want the frame and press against the wall. Pull the frame straight off the wall and your left with the exact place you need to place the nail!
Because I had two hangers, I added a dab of toothpaste on both hangers and had my daughter set a level on top of the frame while I held the frame and pressed it to the wall.
The most dangerous part of this DIY Shadow Box Frame……
when my daughter removed the level off the top of the frame she accidently hit me in the nose with the level! Ouch and as I sat the frame down so I could rub my nose she accidently dropped the level against the frame and chipped a tiny bit of paint!
Kids are so great at helping us create memories!?!?!
No worries. Nothing broke and nothing that couldn’t be easily fixed.
And the whole time my cell phone was ringing. It was my father calling to say he saw Part 1 and thought the frame turned out great. And to jokingly tell me that he had tools that look just like the ones I was using. Ha Ha
The final reveal….
A photograph that I took of my boys earlier this month after they finished riding their dirt bikes.
This shadow box frame hangs between their bedrooms. Incidentally, my youngest son’s room is to the left (the side he’s standing on) and my oldest son’s room is to the right (the side he is standing on).
Should I add a small table or shelf below the frame?
Once I’m finished re-doing my son’s room I plan on repainting this hallway and loft area. Just need to decide what color yet.
Carrie